Case Annealing with parts left over

 

even, quick heat, just on the mouth of the case

This is a great article on case annealing...

http://www.lasc.us/CartridgeCaseAnnealing.htm

So good, I decided to experiment with a case annealing machine also. THIS IS A DANGEROUS THING TO DO, so don’t do it. Brass is very different from steel in that it ONLY work hardens, meaning you can instanly cool a hot sample of brass without tempering the piece. All heat anneals brass, low heat with high time or high heat with low time. If your case gets annealed at the webbing, or anywhere beyond the case mouth, where it needs to be annealed from constant resizing, you could have a KaBoom on your hands. If the case gets visibly hot (emitting light) that a human eye can perceive you got it WAY to hot. you need an infrared temperature meter or this type of product to anneal correctly. http://www.tempil.com/closeup.asp?cid=25&pid=27&theme=0

I used the first site to guide me through my first experiments and recommend that everyone reads it. Here is a supplementary to that site. http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

I built my case rotator using a broken paper shredder, I rewired the AC motor and added an aluminum plate that holds a brass dremel tool brush with two RC car motor gears fixed to it. (they happened to be the same pitch as the master gear on the shredder motor’s gear train assembly) I just used an aluminum plate to hold the cases while they spun so that the flame only hit the neck of the cases and acts as, however small the effect, a heat sink. I place a shell in the device with a pair of needle nose pliers, quickly pulling the case back out with the temperature is reached (700F at 8 seconds) and drop the cases into a jar of water with BREAK-FREE CLP floating on top (a feudal attempt at inhibiting corrosion).