Chinese Clones of the Honda 200cc OHV Engines


These engines are just an incredible bargain, at 100 bucks, that doesn't buy 1/5 of an Animal engine. There is very little to do to prep these stock motors.

All that one needs do is to remove the governor and oil sensor, and adjust the valve lash (I went between .002 and .003). I went ahead and put 18 lbs. valve springs to prevent float, but in box stock I am not sure that that is legal. Of course legality is not that big a deal for this motor because this is a predator 212 and is not legal clone racing anyway, just for fun.

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Image of: output shaft with bolts removed, mallet tapped to remove Image of: reusable looking seal and ball bearing crank-case cover Image of: block opened Image of: 4 gears, cam gear on cam(right) cam gear on crank, governor gear on crank and governor gear on governor
There are timing marks (a divot) on the cam gear and the crank gear to put them in the correct timing position
Image of: governor
The governor works by centrifugal force pushing the lever, when pressed it turns the motion into vertical rotational force, this is what biases the carburetor
Image of: crank and cam timing marks Image of: top of case looking at governor output control arm
This is what an arm is attached to to actuate the carburetor
Image of: another pic of control arm Image of: plastic cap removed from governor shaft Image of: governor with cap removed remember to get the fiber washer
Remember to retrieve all the washers, they are between every part. Us a magnet for the metal ones. Another way of removing the governor is to take off the flywheel us a punch to take the entire governor shaft out, you have to close the new hole you made by threading in a set screw. I just kept the shaft in and dealt with the metal clip from the inside. It's a pain on the butt but you'll get it. I just used two picks (probes) until it came off.
Image of: the workings of the governor Image of: the workings of the governor Image of: the governor gear out with the clip removed Image of: using a magnet to remove the last washer Image of: using a magnet to remove the last washer Image of: the governor fully removed Image of: the oil sending unit removed Image of: parts left from the oil sending unit removal
With the oil sending unit and the controller transistor out it leaves an extra female connector that you can put in another kill switch with (pull to ground)

Technical / Torque Specifications for the Predator 212 Clone Engine


Diameter / Thread Pitch / Length

Torque (Foot-Pounds)

Connecting Rod Bolt M7x1.0 9
Cylinder head bolt M8x1.25 17
Flywheel Nut (Special) M14x1.5 54
Rocker Arm Pivot Lock Nut (Special) M6x.5 7
Rocker Arm Pivot Bolt M8x1.25 17
Crankcase Cover Bolt M8x1.25 17
Muffler Mounting Nuts M8x1.25 17
Cylinder Head Intake Bolts M6x20 1.00 17
Cylinder Head Exhaust Bolts M8x25 1.25 17
Crank Shaft Bolt 5/16"-24 x 3/4" Fine Thread 30
Crank Case Mounting Bolts 5/16"-24 x 3/4" or M8x20 1.25 17
Output Shaft 3/4" * 2.43" Keyway 3/16"
Spark Plug NGK BP-6ES Gap .7mm - .8mm

Note: If you only have an Inch Pound torque wrench multiply the number of ft/lbs by 12 (FT/LBS X 12 = Inch/LBS). Also, to torque the rod, I covered the bolts in oil (the same oil I use in the engine) and alternate tightening the bolts 1 Ft/Lbs. at a time until 9 Ft/Lbs. is reached on both bolts.

Clone Thread at DIY


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